This is a lovely small hotel with an excellent restaurant located six kilometers south of Pezenas. We discovered it about ten years ago and it is on our "must go to" list every year. The food is uniformly perfect and  Hans Keiser (co-owner) always has an outstanding selection of regional  wines - of course reasonably priced. This year we had a Domaine La Croix Belle (20€ ) which was ruby purple and deeply fruity. As entrees we had saumon fume and aiguellette agrumes -thin slices of duck breast served with fresh citrus fruits. Both dishes were bursting with flavor. My daurade dans soupe de poisson was a sweet white filet perched atop a small bowl of soupe de poisson and tender vegetables--- asperges, carrots, sun dried tomatoes, and a sprinkling of orange zest. If I could only replicate that at home ! Norm's lapin (which we did not see on that many menus this year ??!!) was tender and juicy with a mound of buttered fettucine in the center of the plate. Desserts were great also: Pear and chocolate in filo on a bed of creme anglaise and "crumble" topped with a variety of fresh red berries. We heartily recommend St. Alban - and always take our houseguests there.

I must add our two cents to the other reviews of Les Muscardins. We have been enjoying the perfect cooking of Georges Rousset for twenty years and his high standards are being  carried on by his son Thierry who took  over  in the kitchen several years ago. We can always count on a leisurely A+ meal from beginning to end. The amuse bouches  this year were particularly zesty: breaded deep fried mussel "balls" ( a tiny taste explosion), black olive madeleines, finely chopped shrimp dressed with mayo & dill, and rosemary savouries.   We both had the salmon and vegetable terrine which could grace a Gourmet magazine cover and tasted as good as it looked. Norm had  agneau  navarin-- tender, tres pink and accompanied by girolles  and vegetables. I had veau
grillee bois de reglisses. Two sticks of licorice flavored skewers lent a really tasty, slightly smoky flavor to the tender veal.
Because of the leisurely pace we had room for fromage and dessert! One cheese was new to us (after all these years!) --- it was called Tete de Moine and is a cylinder which Georges shaved using a special cutter.
The serving looked like a tiny white Christmas tree and had a memorable sharp, pungent, tangy taste.
Dessert was apricot brulee !!! heavenly and not too sweet, and glace vanille with poached figues.

This charming small place is located in Lattes in the stunning new community of Port Ariane where multi-colored high rise condos surround a marina filled with expensive yachts. There are quite a few restaurants here - seafood, coquillage, Moroccan - we tried just a couple. Our starters were very good. I had huitres cru with my favorite dipping sauce--red wine vinegar and finely chopped onions - heaven!  Norm had salade de moules - mussels out of the shell with onion, juicy tomatoes and fresh herbs dressed with a zesty vinaigrette.  I had salmis de canard on a bed of rich demi-glace & olives acoompanied by a silky mushroom flan and perfect mashed potatoes. Norm had rognons de veau. They were properly cooked; tender and tasty  and up to his very discerning taste. For dessert we had creamy creme caramel with a nice burnish and my all-time favorite -- gateau moelleux au chocolat tiede et sa creme anglaise et glace vanille.

This recently (2001) renovated 18th century castle sits on  5 acres of wooded and beautifully landscaped grounds and is about ten minutes from centre ville.  We had an excellent dinner -- starting with the region's wonderful fresh asperges encased in airy puff pastry and an onion tart topped with chevre and tomate. A simple but tasty salade vert was on the side. We both had chevreuil - my mouth is watering just remembering it ! This was  a rack of venison as tender as butter and as flavorful a cut of meat as can be imagined. The demi-glace was rich and perfectly balanced. There were accompanying vegetables but I didn't make a note of them. We enjoyed this feast with a full-bodied, deep purple Faugeres. The menu changes with the seasons and the chevreuil was  a spring offering but any chef who can do game meat this well can surely do many other things well.

Pressoir is in the center of the remote rustic village of St. Saturnin and is owned by dynamic Pius and his lovely wife. Two Fridays each month there is musical entertainment (jazz, blues, trios etc.) and on that night there is a set menu.( Reservations essential as it's always a sell-out.) One night Pius was roasting a whole lamb on a spit in the giant fireplace which dominates one wall of the dining room. It was absolutely mouth watering-- and all of the accompaniments were outstanding: grilled mushrooms, spaetzle and demi-glace.  We love to go on regular nights because he does magret and Chalosse filet on the grill. ( I thought the filet was Charolais- this is even more tender!!). Entrees are also great -- Croquette fondante filled with a creamy fromage  from the Larzac and great salads. There is a nice selection of wines  from the region. ( The book Virgile's Vineyard by Patrick Moon published last year is set near St. Saturnin and the author talks about his wonderful meals at Pressoir). Website is www.pressoir-auberge.com.

http://www.lapourpreetlesoliviers.fr.st

2)La  Pourpre et Les Oliviers   St Jean de Fos
I wrote this up before so just a quick update. We found this young chef continues to improve. I had lentil soup with foie gras ( yes !!!) and Norm started with escargot in cream sauce with sun-dried tomatoes, capers and walnuts. We both had lapin farci -  the stuffing was zucchini and carrots - on a bed of luscious mushroom sauce. The cheese board is perfect - the right temperature so the soft cheeses are runny and the others are fully potent. Vin was an excellent, rich Mas de Brousses.